BATTLETECH CITYTECH PDF

CityTech is a FASA wargame first published in and set in the BattleTech fictional universe. CityTech was the first official expansion to the BattleTech board . Citytech: The Battletech Game of Urban Combat [BOX SET] on * FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. Citytech: The Battletech Game of Urban. CityTech is an urban conflict roleplay game for two or more players, ages 12 and up. In the year , General Aleksandr Kerensky led the Star League Defense.

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ColBosch Lieutenant Colonel Posts: I think the winner is battltech clear. BattleTech is a huge house, it’s not any one fan’s or “type” of fans. If you need to relieve yourself, use the bathroom not another BattleTech fan.

ColBosch on 20 March NeonKnight on 24 March ColBosch on 12 March Oh, that is neat, and something I didn’t know before. Hengist Lieutenant Colonel Posts: Wish I had a bunch of them. Hengist on 24 March I own one, I really want more. Ronin Actual Warrant Officer Posts: Ronin Actual on 24 March I love the Locust from the PlasTech set.

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I will gladly buy any that you are looking to get rid of. I picked up 3 of the 4 not released packs at ECCC this weekend. They are so nice.

The charger is the old sculpt. The Shogun looks great as does cityetch Cataphract. I was a 1x scale war-gamer and moving those cardboard cut-outs cifytech got old fast!! I actually though the Val’s, Panthers and Atlas mechs were close enough to the art to be acceptable and the Locust Plastech I lived with because it was durable.

I still have Plastech Panther’s that’s been lugged a million miles and still look like they were the day I painted them!!

Cazaril Warrant Officer Posts: For those that have never seen all the PlasTech minis, I found this over at Sarna Were the 3rd Edition plastic minis a travesty?

Were the PlasTech almost as bad? Yes, but for different reasons But the truth is, as some others have mentioned, they are not irreversibly so. Cleaning up the 3rd Edition takes some work, and worse yet, a slightly different skill set then the metal or hard plastic ones And there is the rub.

CityTech Battletech 1st Edition FASA 1608 Complete RPG

Most people get disgusted because the tricks and techniques they normally use don’t work on them. So instead of learning something new, they do a poor job cleaning them up. Then the paint comes out looking poor, and the whole set of minis gets labeled as garbage because they didn’t come out looking like a ciyttech metal one But who’s fault is that?

Is there an upper limit to how good they can look? But with a little TLC and an open mind, they can at least be Tabletop quality and actually very nice Granted, the “dimple” that almost every one has somewhere caves in the entire side and requires a lot of rework, but I’ve seen minis from a misaligned mold that require almost as much work. As for the PlasTech ones I love the F-Atlas.

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The last one I did came out looking like this And I’m not alone in all this Ava Mango Two posted a project where he was giving a make-over to a Catapult, where he added doors and other bits of grebble. It came out looking really good. And speaking of the Catapult, it is one of my three favorite Mechs from that set also although is it really that fat?

But again, working with the PlasTech minis is a little different than the metal versions This time the problem is painting.

Because the panel lines are shallow and not crisply defined, the standard “Basecoat, wash, drybrush, vattletech that a lot of people like to use doesn’t work so well with these.

Which means either you are cutting deeper groves like Knallogfall, or you have to use a different painting style. Even the first set of Introductory Boxed Set minis had their problems, but again, they can be made to look good examples of a Cicada and Banshee.

CityTech Battletech 1st Edition FASA Complete RPG | eBay

As for comparing them to the newer minis, I agree with Feenix It is just a little unfair except in the case of the I. Vaaish Master Sergeant Posts: Cazaril, I have to disagree somewhat about placing the fault on the user because of the techniques needed to clean the 3rd edition mechs.

Those casts were absolutely wretched and have major issues with vents, collapsed or warped sections, soft details and miscasts. It is possible to fix them but you need lots of patience to clean and then resculpt the missing or warped detail. They really aren’t in the same league as a mold slip on a metal or resin model.

That said, I absolutely love the ones I have now that they are all painted up. Vaaish on 30 July I agree it takes different techniques for different materials and not everyone is willing to learn the techniques, but I do think that some of the disgust is because the cleaning process is so hard with that 3rd edition plastic and once that’s done you still have to deal with all the rest of the issues with the casting so folks just think why bother.

Pat Payne Lieutenant Posts: ColBosch on 14 March So I’m not the only one Found almost a full box set of Plastechs in a miniatures bargain bin at a comic store in Eugene, Oregon, mid 90’s. I agree with the comments of others about some of the QC problems.

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I did not bother with trying to be fancy when I painted them up. They were my “beater mechs” for those unplained games with friends. I was not so excited about the Fatipult and the hands on the Hunchback were fragile but they were what they were. Bought a 3rd Ed. Stinger and Archer several years ago. Thought they were cheap pewter minis until i got my package. Actually i never used them for gaming although they were already painted.

Today i would like to strip the paint, but with the plastic material What would other people use to get rid of the paint without getting rid of the entire mech? Later i got a Citytechframe. The Mad Cat was already missing, but the other seven members were available.

Until today only the Uller and the Nova have been modded and painted. While the Uller used scrap material and was easy to build the Nova took a bit more time. The rear facing toe had to be placed anew giving the word toecutter a totally new meaning I hacked the lower arms of the Daishi next to it to get my PPCs.

The remnants of the Daishi still await their fate, but i think they will end like the Centurion which ended as kill under the feet of a Nightsky. The other three are more or less forgotten, but at least the totally ugly Orion will end as battle damage sooner or later. Simple Green’s what I’ve used to strip the 3rd ed plastics I wanted to re-do. It takes the paint off of the Vinyl very quickly, only a couple hours or so and it’s out of all but the worst recesses.

The rest came loose really well with a pick. That said, it didn’t work nearly as well on the Citytech material that, or using different priming techniques made it more difficult. For those that have cleaned up the 3rd ed stuff, beyond a really sharp Xacto, can you offer some tips to making these look nicer?

I’ve struggled to get green stuff to stick in places, and I have a whole sprue I got off of EBay a while back, as well as the ones I’ve had since they were new. Big shock, but my painting has improved a bit since 96, when I got them, so I’ve stripped a bunch to re-try. The only way I really got GS to stick on the old 3rd ed stuff was to really rough up the area you are putting it down.

Once you get the first layer adhered you can sculpt as normal. Also, pinning things is your friend.